Do-it-Yourself: Costume Helmet (Big Barda)
I have always loved Big Barda's design. Over the years it has changed significantly, but her samurai-inspired helmet has remained a trademark of her look. I decided early on that I wanted to go with a more real-world design for the helmet, but make sure that it was still clearly recognizable. Who am I to improve on Jack Kirby's work? Despite the sleek design of the helmet, this was easily one of the most complicated cosplay projects that I have tackled.
I started with a practical base, which came in the form of a child's toy Dodger helmet that I picked up at the thrift store for $2.50. I cut the bill off of it and used it for the foundation of Barda's Helmet. I then used craft foam to measure, design, and test the a few different designs for the back of the helmet that comes down around the neck. I had to be careful that I could still turn my head without trouble, but still have it come down as far as possible.
Once I finalized the pattern for the back of the helmet with the cheap craft foam, I traced it onto Worbla and made the final version. I used industrial glue to cement the new Worbla piece to the Dodger helmet.After the glue dried, I used my heat gun to bend the Worbla into exactly the shape I wanted. This included adding a slight curl to the bottom of the helmet, and making sure it was symmetrical. Finally, I used Bondo to smooth the seam and make the Worbla and Dodger helmet look like one item. My little detail sander is a godsend for working with Bondo on small or detailed items like this. GET ONE!
Adding more details with Worbla was the next step. Barda has very distinctive patterning on her helmet, and this is where Worbla really shines. It's so easy to cut a small strip and then bend it to fit along the edge of almost any shape. It attaches to itself when heated, but I also used glue since I'm not sure if it would have securely attached itself to the Dodger helmet and Bondo.
Then I used Gesso to make it completely smooth, by adding a thin layer then sanding, then adding another layer and sanding. Barda's helmet needs to look completely smooth and very futuristic. The Gesso and sanding made the parts of the helmet completely level and smooth, and also insured a uniform texture for the primer paint to attach.
After what felt like endless hours of sanding, I added the smaller details to the helmet with Worbla. In the picture to the left, I painted the details from the previous step black so you could see the difference. The Worbla attached to the Gesso, and is always incredibly easy to use on details like this. I used Gesso where the strips of Worbla met to make the details seamless and to avoid the gaps that can sometimes show on the final process.
Now it's time to paint the helmet. Big Barda's helmet is a shiny smooth black, so this took a while. The technique is to lay a thin coat of spray paint over the whole helmet, wait for it to dry COMPLETELY, then use extremely fine sandpaper lightly on any areas that aren't perfectly smooth. After that's done, you do it again. A lot. Eventually, you will get a nice smooth finish that doesn't look like spray paint.
Barda's helmet goes all the way down to her shoulders, and like many comic book outfits that defy logic, she can still turn her head. Physics doesn't work like that for me and so I had to come up with an alternative. I used black scale maille around the neck to extend the look down to give the illusion of the helmet reaching my shoulders. It ended up matching perfectly, and is one of my favorite details on this cosplay. I created the scale maille piece and attached it with Velcro to the inside of the helmet. The fact that it was removable made painting and finishing the helmet easier.
Clear coating can be one of the most stressful parts of a project. I wanted maximum shine on my helmet, so I used a high gloss clear coat. I highly recommend that you use the same brand of paint throughout a project (if possible), and ALWAYS test different paints together on scraps before using them on your work in progress. Nothing is more heartbreaking than having something almost finished and then watching the paint bubble or flake because of a chemical reaction. I carefully added multiple clear coats, leaving many hours between each coat to insure that it was completely dry when the next was added. THIS IS REALLY IMPORTANT!
I used copper leaf to add the metallic shine. As always, practice leafing on scraps before working on your final piece, and take your time. Fine paintbrushes are very helpful for leafing corners and edges. It can be really tricky to get it looking right. After I finished leafing the main helmet, I added more layers clear coat. This i
s a vital step after leafing and prevents the metal from tarnishing or peeling off.
Now the majority of the helmet was done, and I could create the decorative front. I wanted it to have some weight and depth to it, so I used Kamui Cosplay's tutorial and sandwiched a layer of craft foam between two layers of Wonderflex. The Wonderflex should be larger than the craft foam so that you can heat seal it around the edges. I molded these pieces with heat to perfectly fit to each other, and to the finished section of the helmet. After these pieces cooled, I painted them or copper leafed them just like I did the other parts of the helmet. To finish it off, I used industrial glue to attach these pieces to the rest of the helmet.
Do-It-Yourself: Superhero Mask
A good superhero mask can make or break a costume, whether it's for a kid's party, Halloween, or a convention. I use a very simple method to create my superhero masks, and with a few craft supplies and household items, you can create your own mask that will look great and be easy on your wallet!
Materials:
- Craft Foam - Packs run about $7 and individual sheets around $1.
- Styrofoam Wig Head - Found online or at wig shops for about $2 - $4.
- Scissors/ Xacto Knife/ razor blade
- Heat Gun / Hot Hair dryer
- Mod Podge (spray or brush on type)
- Masking Tape
- Spray Paint (optional)
Process:
Step 1: Decide what color and shape of mask you want. Get craft foam of the correct color (or as close as possible) and start sketching your shape lightly in pencil. The side you draw on will eventually become the back side of your mask, so don't worry about erasing mistakes perfectly. I use an Xacto knife or razor blade to cut my masks out because it's easier to get smooth edges on the foam. To insure that my masks are symmetrical, I usually draw one side, cut out almost all of it, then fold it over and trace it to make the other half of the mask.
Step 2: Molding the foam mask to fit the contours of your face is very easy! Start by taping the mask in place on the foam wig head, making sure that the side with pencil marks becomes the back. Don't use pins because they can leave holes in the foam or will melt it if they heat up during this process. The tape might lose its grip if it gets too hot, but it will keep the mask in place for the beginning of the process.
Using a heat gun or a very hot hair dryer, start heating up the foam mask and gently pressing the mask into place. Be careful not to burn your finger or start melting the foam, especially if you are using a heat gun. If you smell something burning, STOP! I find that it works better to start in the middle of the mask near the nose since that area takes the most shaping, then move to the outer areas of the mask. Once you have the shape you like, let the mask cool completely before moving on to the next step.
Step 3: If your mask is already the correct color, move on to step four, but if the foam is not the right color now is the time to paint your mask. Leave it on the Styrofoam head, re-taping it so that the tape is on the back of the mask only. Then carefully spray paint or paint the mask by hand. It's important to keep the mask on the head during this phase so that it keeps its new shape. I highly recommend testing your paint on a scrap of foam first because some paints will damage/melt foam. You will notice how messed up my Styrofoam head is in the pictures!
Step 4: After your mask is completely cooled and the paint is TOTALLY dry, you will seal your mask with a clear coat of Mod Podge. I usually use the spray on variety, which is available at craft stores, Wal-Mart and other places, but brushing it on can work as well. MAKE SURE THAT YOUR MASK IS STILL ON THE STYROFOAM HEAD WHEN YOU DO THIS and that the tape is attached to the back side. The Mod Podge will give your foam a shiny look and texture that resembles latex or leather. I recommend multiple coats of Mod Podge to give your mask more strength and to help it keep its shape. Let each coat dry completely before adding the next and leave the mask on the Styrofoam head for at least 24 hours after the last coat.
Step 5: There are many methods to wear your new mask. You can punch holes on the sides of the mask and tie ribbon or string to it, then tie it behind your head. For the "superhero" look, I usually use spirit gum to attach it directly to my face. Spirit gum is pretty cheap and available at most costume stores. Be sure to buy it in a pack with the spirit gum remover. Trust me on that. I learned the hard way. I also recommend testing it out on a small spot on your before the event, just in case it irritates your skin. You don't want to show up to work on Monday with a raccoon mask rash!
This technique seems simple, but it can create amazing things! With practice, patience, and a little creativity, you will be able to create incredible masks and finish off even the most professional costumes!
Do-It-Yourself: Steampunk Bustle Skirt
The bustle skirt was my favorite part of my Steampunk Batgirl costume. I wanted to create an item that was a steampunk staple, but still hint at the traditional cape that Batgirl is famous for wearing. The skirt is a simple six-panel skirt that is just missing the front three panels. Don't know what that means? That's ok, keep reading and I will do my best to explain. (I simplified some steps in this process, but it will end up looking just like my skirt.)
Waistband
The first thing you need to figure out is the length of your waistband. Measure your TRUE waist, which should be the narrowest part of your torso, a little above your belly button. If you are going to wear the skirt under a corset subtract one inch from that measurement, otherwise add one inch to the measurement.
Example: Waist measurement: 28 inches
Under Corset: 27 inches
Not under corset: 29 inches
This will end up being the length of your waistband, including seam allowances. The under corset length is smaller to accommodate the smaller waist size and avoid uncomfortable bunching under the corset. Measure and cut a rectangular strip if your fabric, using your adjusted waist measurement as the length and a width of 4 inches.
Take your waistband strip and iron some interfacing on the underside of it. You don't need heavy duty interfacing, just some regular weight stuff to give the waistband some structural strength. MAKE SURE THAT YOU BUY IRON-ON INTERFACING. It will make your life a LOT easier, so ask the store personnel if you are unsure. It's really easy to buy the wrong stuff, and we all hate the walk of shame back through the fabric store that you left 20 minutes ago.
Before you start sewing, you will want to iron creases into your waistband because it will make things much faster. Fold it over length-wise and iron it until it holds the crease down the center, then fold half inch folds along each edge of the waistband and iron until they hold creases as well. These mark your seam allowances and the creases will make the sewing easier.
Fold the waistband lengthwise, with the interfacing on the outside. This should be folded opposite of the ironed seam that you ironed earlier. You will then sew the ends closed on the half inch creases that you ironed earlier, but make sure that the lengthwise half inch seams are sewn in the folded position.
Now you are done prepping your waistband! You will turn it right-side out later, but for now we will move on to the panels!
Panels
I traced my panels from a floor-length skirt onto large pieces of butcher paper (ok, so they were old DnD maps, sue me). Those panels are about 13 inches wide across the top, 34 inches wide across the bottom, and 42 inches long, but I added about 5 more inches on both sides and an extra foot to the length of my panel outline. The fuller you want your bustle, the more fabric you need to add to each panel. I used three enlarged panels to create my steampunk skirt. Remember, always trace an cut patterns length-wise according to the weave of the fabric, just like the picture to the right.
PLEASE NOTE: Only add extra inches of fabric to the panels that you are going to use for the bustle. You won't want to add as much/any extra fabric to the panel pattern for the front of the skirt or you will trip all over it.
Then sew the panels together by matching the edges and stitching them together to form a circle or semi-circle, like the picture to the left. My skirt only used three panels since it only went half way around my body. Full skirts will usually use five or more panels. Make sure your seams are all facing the same direction on your skirt as you sew. After you sew your panels together, you will want to finish your edges on the underside of the skirt and hem the outer edges. This video shows you ways to do that.
Put it all Together
Now you will pin the panels to the waistband before you sew them. You will choose one of the lengthwise half-inch seam allowances and pin the panels to, and start by pinning the front edges of the skirt to the appropriate place on the waistband. For my skirt, I wanted the skirt to open right in front of my hip bones so that my bloomers and garters would show. The easiest way to do this is to safety pin the waistband on yourself, then pin the front edges of the skirt to where you want them on the waistband.
Once the front pins are in place, you will need to make pleats to gather the rest of the skirt fabric to the waistband. You will basically fold the fabric over itself, then pin it into place. This it the most tedious part of making the skirt, but remember that the pleats do not have to be perfect.
Once you are done pinning the skirt, carefully sew the pleats in place on the side that you pinned. Iron the pleats flat after you sew them, then close the waistband (be careful that the other seam allowance is folded up inside), and then sew it shut across the bottom.
Bustling the Bustle
Now your basic skirt is finished, it's time to add the bustle. The easiest way is to put your skirt on the dress form and start pinning. There isn't really a magic formula, just start pulling spots and pinning them to higher places to give it the tiered appearance. Once you have everything looking good, hand stitch each spot where you pinned. Don't start sewing until your whole bustle is pinned, because you will probably change your mind... a few times.
Bat Wings
The "bat" part of the skirt was actually designed to be a completely separate piece. It was made just like a cape, and is hand stitched into the waistband so that it can be detached and reattached very easily. I did that to give the skirt more versatility as a costume piece. I can now wear it with my
steampunk batgirl, or remove it to be just steampunk!
I measured and drew the desired shape on butcher paper (another old DnD map) and traced one on the black and one on the yellow fabrics. I then carefully cut them out and pinned them together, starting with the point of each bat wing shape to be sure they lined up correctly. I then stitched them together and turned it inside out to hide the edges, just like a simple cape design. Originally, I had planned to add interfacing to give the wings some stiffness and shape, but I really liked how the material flowed without it. Then I simply closed up the top of the "wings" and hand stitched it into the waistband of the skirt, underneath the already finished bustle.
Have questions? Need clarification? Post a reply or email me at Kimi@goldenlasso.net