Tag Archive for cosplay

Batgirl’s Doctor is In: Dr. Andrea Letamendi

swteeAndrea Letamendi is one of the most interesting figures on the convention scene. She holds a Ph.D. in Clinical Psychology, and puts her knowledge to geeky use by speaking about the psychology of Superheroes, Science Fiction, and Cosplay. When she isn’t speaking on panels, Andrea works as a researcher at UCLA, does work for Marvel and DC, and creates amazing cosplays of her own.

Kimi: You’re known as @ArkhamAsylumDoc on twitter, do you have a favorite Arkham inmate in the Bat-verse?

Andrea Letamendi: Oh yes, I have many favorite Arkham Baddies. I can’t deny the power that the Joker has psychologically–he is such a mesmerizing and puzzling character because his acts of villainy and destruction do not always seem rationale or explainable. My favorite villain from Gotham’s Rogue Gallery is the Penguin, because of his tragic story. He seems to frequently try to reach out and connect with others, perhaps just looking to be understood, and that is incredibly relatable.

latemendi_batgirlK: You were recently depicted in  Batgirl #16 as Barbara Gordon’s clinical psychologist. Why did Gail Simone immortalize you as part of DC cannon?

AL: Last year, before the Batgirl annual, Mrs. Simone reached out to me to ask some questions about trauma recovery. Essentially she was writing about an important time in Barbara’s life during which she was recovering–both physically and psychologically– from the severe injury from a gunshot wound when the Joker attacked her (See: The Killing Joke). As a Batgirl reader and DC fan, I was more than thrilled to answer anything she wanted to know. My background in treating soldiers who have returned from Iraq and Afghanistan with psychological and physical injuries best prepped me to give anecdotes and explain the relationship between the therapist and the healing client. Little did I know that Mrs. Simone would not only write some of my suggestions into her comic, but also include me as a character! It was truly a surprise– and I feel the honorary gesture was not just toward me but for the psychology community as a whole.

K: In addition to being an adviser for Marvel and DC, you are also well known as a cosplayer. What pushed you to start cosplaying?

AL: I have essentially been cosplaying since I was a teenager, if you count “dressing up as a Jedi character that you made up” cosplay. I’ve always felt drawn to dressing up as characters I love, but it truly wasn’t until I started attending conventions in 2006 that I initially became involved with cosplay and the cosplay community.

tumblr_m8l6lqxB8k1rslvxlo1_500K: Which costume is your favorite to wear to conventions?

AL: My favorite costume is probably my Steampunk Huntress costume, although I have  a Battlestar Galactica costume in the works and it may quickly become one of my favorites!

K: You’ve found a way to bridge the gap between your love of psychology and your love of comics, are you trying to do the same with psychology and cosplay?

AL: I’ve found that my love of cosplay has led me to ask questions like “what draws us to certain characters?” and “why do we feel fulfilled or content when we’re wearing someone else’s clothes?” I also believe there’s something empowering and psychologically inspiring when we dress up as a superhero that we look up to, even if they are fictional. In my mind, it was inevitable that these two universe’s collide, which is why me and my colleague created a Cosplay Survey and plan to continue exploring the motivations, expressions, and backgrounds of cosplayers. I also believe that we can use real-world data to debunk or disconfirm myths about cosplayers. I feel as though psychological science can tell a story that allows people to see how adaptive, healthy, resourceful, and social cosplayers really are.

K: What conflicts have you faced between your geeky hobbies and your career?

AL: Actually, even though I initially felt distanced and a bit misunderstood in my field, I’ve recently discovered that people are generally interested–and even quite inspired–by some of the work I’m doing in the comics and cosplay community. I have to say that I was surprised by this and it reminds me that people just want to get to know you and that the field of Psychology can be particularly open and supportive of these other hobbies. I’d like to think that goes with other social sciences disciplines.

WCpsychLEFTIMG_5276K: Briefly, what have you learned about the Cosplay community through your surveys and your Psychology of Cosplay panels?

AL: We have learned that cosplayers represent a very diverse and social group. I think the single most important thing we have learned is that we simply do not have any evidence that cosplayers share any one feature or characteristic beyond their passion for costuming and performing. Stereotypes about cosplayers, therefore, are not currently supported by anything other than bullies on the internet.

You can visit Andrea’s blog at Underthemaskonline.com or follow her on Twitter @ArkhamAsylumDoc.

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PreCon Skin Care

WWFacePrepping your face for a convention is as important as prepping your costume. Unless it’s covered by a mask, your face is a major focal point of your cosplay. You should do everything you can to take care of it!

Convention Prep

DON’T Try Anything New!
The clock is ticking down until the convention. You’re frantic to get your costume done, your trying to figure out your schedule, and the excitement is building. Now is NOT the time to try a product or procedure on your face for the first time. That tanning lotion that your friend loves could leave you looking orange, you might be allergic to that new moisturizer, and even new makeup might do some damage. Experiment when you have a little more time to fix any problems that pop up, and stick with your regular routine right before the convention.

Plucking and Waxing
Make sure you pluck a few days before the convention and/or get waxed at least a week before the convention but ONLY if you’ve had it done before! This gives your skin plenty of time to heal up if there is any irritation. Waxing is more unpredictable and tends to show up more when it goes wrong, so leave more time to fix the problem. DON’T TRY WAXING FOR THE FIRST TIME RIGHT BEFORE A CONVENTION!

water-glassHydrate
Water is the magic beauty potion you’ve been overlooking for years. Start drinking as much water as you can about two weeks before the convention. It will keep your skin clear and help you avoid flaky dry spots. It will also help you avoid chapped lips, red eyes, dark bags under your eyes, and maintain a healthy weight. Drinking 6-8 glasses of water helps your whole body, so drink.

Avoid Alcohol
Yes, I’m a party pooper. You should avoid drinking during the last week before a convention. One glass of wine probably isn’t going to do much, but alcohol dehydrates your body, which causes red eyes, puffiness, bags under your eyes, and more.

Sleep!
A lot of beauty problems can be solved just by getting 8-10 hours of sleep. Red eyes, bags under the eyes, and swelling can all be signs that you didn’t get enough sleep last night. Plan on having your costume done, your bags packed, and everything ready to go so that you can spend the night before relaxing and resting.


Daily Skin Care

Wash Your Face at Night
Washing your face strips your skin of natural oils and can dry out your skin. You should really only wash your face at the end of the day to remove makeup and other build up. Washing your face before bed also keeps oils from building up on your pillowcase, which helps prevent breakouts. In the morning, just splash your face with some water instead of scrubbing away all the natural moisture that your skin produces.

Collection of bottles of health and beauty productsMoisturize
As someone who has an oily face, this can be a rather tricky prospect for me. There is a fine line between keeping my skin smooth and creating a mountain range of zits overnight. However, proper moisturizing helps fight wrinkles and helps makeup look its best. You should moisturize every morning, preferably using a product with at least 30spf sunblock. You can moisturize at night if you have naturally dry skin, but if your skin is oily, try just moisturizing around your eyes. There are lots of moisturizers on the market for different types of skin, so figure out what works for you.

Don’t Exfoliate Every Day!
Again, this is about keeping your skin hydrated and avoiding flaky skin. Exfoliating can become a vicious cycle for some women. You exfoliate to get rid of flaky skin, but that dries out your skin and causes flakes. You shouldn’t be exfoliating more than a few times a week. This is a big mistake and can actually make you appear older!

Sunblock
You should be wearing sunblock or moisturizer with at least 30SPF every day. Even if you spend most of your day inside, the exposure you get driving or walking your dog can really add up. Sun damage is the number one cause of skin damage and premature aging, and should be put on areas that are prone to showing age such as your face, neck, and chest. Don’t forget the back of your hands, especially if you will be driving! If you are planning on spending time in the sun, wear higher SPF and a hat.

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Costume Controversy: Fully Clothed Superheroines

newpowergirl An adorable collection of illustrations have had the cosplay and comic community in a tizzy this week! They are by Michael Lee Lunsford and show female comic characters with redesigned outfits that are much more modest.  The skimpy clothes that female characters wear in comics have long been a controversial topic, especially among female fans. Some fans feel that the skimpy clothes are a way to pander to the young male demographic. Others feel that a woman should be free to wear whatever she likes and that there is nothing wrong with skimpy clothes. These pictures have rekindled the debate on how females are depicted in comics, and in turn, how cosplayers represent those characters in the real world. As an avid comic reader and cosplayer, I also had a very strong reaction to them.

catwoman52

An actual panel of Catwoman from JLA #2. She must use a lot of fashion tape.

I agree that women have the right to wear whatever they want, but most comic book characters are being designed and drawn by men. There is no women’s choice involved. The lithe female character poses and convenient camera angles of many panels only serve to further objectify the female characters in a way that simply doesn’t happen with male characters. The impracticality of the designs is what annoys me the most. Yes, it’s easier to do gymnastics in a leotard, but is it the most practical thing to wear when you are being shot at? It’s really the last straw when you see a design as ridiculously exaggerated as Catwoman’s unzipped suit.  Is it really that important that her breasts are exposed as she’s trying to sneak through Gotham unseen? WHY THE HELL WOULDN’T SHE JUST ZIP IT UP? In an era where many male characters are moving from spandex to body armor, it’s hard to continue to excuse the amounts of skin showing on many female characters.

newelecCosplayers are a completely different situation because they are REAL PEOPLE and who can make their own choices. If someone makes a woman wear a skimpy outfit without any choice, she becomes objectified and loses power. If a woman chooses to wear that same outfit because it makes her feel good, she has the power. The freedom of choice makes all the difference! The element of choice is why I have a problem with male artists designing skimpy female outfits, but do not have an issue with cosplayers creating and wearing those outfits. I often see cosplayers of both genders tweak character designs to be more flattering or comfortable for them to wear in public. Sometimes their self-expression means adding fabric to make it more modest, sometimes it involves showing more skin. Neither choice is “better” because it all depends on the individual cosplayer. Original designs are just as valid a form of cosplay as exact replicas of character outfits.

newWWThese pictures are a great artistic exercise, and I love the conversation they have started on this topic. That said, I’m not a huge fan of all the designs. I think Electra is amazing and easily my favorite, with Psylocke coming in a close second. Many of the designs are very interesting, but I’m not a fan of the baggy look that many of them are sporting. The khaki pants on Wonder Woman don’t seem to match the rest of her design, but I really like how he altered the upper half of her outfit. Michael has a great artistic style that shows the unique personalities and beauty of each character, without focusing on their ass-ets.
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WonderCon!

I made it safely back from Scotland!  I had an amazing time, saw beautiful places, drank too much, and lost a few pounds (haha… get it… they use the UK pound…. sorry). I have several great posts in the works and am ready to catch up, but first…

Golden Lasso Wonder WomanWONDERCON!

I will be attending Wondercon on Friday only, due to Renaissance Faire obligations. I’ll be dressed as Wonder Woman at a convention for the first time since 2011! My armor is all polished and my golden lasso is ready!

For those of you who haven’t attended WonderCon, it’s a wonderful event and I highly recommend it to old-school convention lovers. It’s growing fast, but is usually compared to SDCC before it became the pop-sensation that it is today. It’s much smaller than SDCC and that leads to really great interactions between fans, creators, artists, cosplayers, and staff. The parking can still be difficult, but it’s do-able and there are probably even hotels still available in the area if you decide you want to head down there this weekend. It’s also right down the street from Disneyland, so it’s a great weekend destination for the whole family or Disney-lovers. The convention even arranged discounted Disney tickets for convention attendees!

For all my panel-loving friends, I highly suggest attending The Psychology of Star Trek vs. Star Wars, Friday at 1:30pm. Dr. Andrea Letamendi, you may know her as the Huntress from my Steampunk DC group, is an amazing panelist and is sure to make a great case for Star Wars! Brian Ward, the steampunk Green Arrow and copper-working genus, is going to be refereeing… er… moderating the discussion.

I hope to see you there! Follow me @LadyAdeena to find me or to get in touch!

 

Do-It-Yourself: Steampunk Weapon

S_IMG_8853A

Prop making is one of the most challenging aspects of cosplay and costume making. For this tutorial, I will be showing you how to modify a plastic toy gun into a Steampunk grapple gun. I wanted to do something very specific for my Steampunk Batgirl costume, but you can use many of these techniques to modify other plastic weapons. It also happens to be my favorite part of any costume, and something that I don’t get to do nearly enough. The details of a prop can really push a costume to the next level, especially when it comes to Steampunk!


Step one: Choose your Weapon

gun1The first, and most important step of making a steampunk weapon is choosing the toy weapon you are going to modify. Take your time. Plan out exactly what you want and don’t give up until you find it! Walk around the toy isles, shop online, and check out local Goodwill stores until you find the perfect toy. Don’t worry about the color, focus on the shape and how it’s built. Avoid guns that are easily recognizable as a specific model, unless that’s the look you want (Oops). Make sure the toy is sturdy, that it’s made of all plastic (rubber and metal will change how you have to modify it), and if it will be easy to disassemble or mask with tape for the painting process.

The gun pictured is the one I chose. I ended up not using the sights or the silencer that came with it, but the purple details ended up looking pretty cool by the end. Again, color doesn’t matter at all.


Step Two: Prep for Paint

This is the most boring step, but it’s vital if you want a good looking product by the end of this process. You will need fine grain sandpaper and dish soap. Carefully sand away any imperfections on the gun, without taking away too much or leaving scratches in the plastic. The goal is to make the gun as smooth and realistic as possible. Again, don’t worry about the color of the gun, just focus on the texture of its surface.

When you have finished sanding the gun, wash it in normal water and dish washing liquid. You will have to wash your gun with damp rags if it has electronic parts and can’t get totally wet. Be sure to rinse the gun thoroughly so soap residue doesn’t mess up your painting later. Dry it with a rag and wait a few hours to insure it’s completely dry before moving on to Step Three.


Step Three: Primer

gun2Be careful not to handle the gun too much before you paint it. Oils from your hands can impact the paint. I always use Krylon Fusion spray paint for plastics. For this project, I used black paint with a satin finish.

Take care to keep the spray can at least a foot from the gun and spray a thin layer of the paint, don’t worry if you still see the original color through this first layer. Let the layer dry completely, and then add another. Keep adding thin layers until the gun is completely covered. MAKE SURE that each layer dries completely before adding the next, and that the layers stay thin, or you will get drips that ruin the look of your gun.

My gun ended up looking VERY modern and recognizable with the black primer on it. I was really worried by this point, but kept on going. Notice I painted all the parts just in case I decided to use them later. (The grappling hook is part of Step 5.)


Step Four: Metalize

gun3You will need an amazing substance called Rub-n-Buff to make the gun look metallic. It comes in small tubes, but don’t let that fool you, a little goes a LONG way. It comes in tons of colors, I used the silver shade and the antique gold for my gun. Different metal looks all put together in one weapon really make something look steampunk, so don’t hesitate to use two or three different colors on the different parts of your gun.

You are going to use the Rub-n-Buff to highlight the metal areas of your gun by hand. This of it more as a polish than a paint. Put a small dot of it on a smooth cloth, then carefully start applying it to your weapon. I HIGHLY suggest you practice on something else first to get a feel for it. Remember how you slowly added more and more primer paint to your gun in step three? Start with a tiny bit and then add more. I left a lot of black showing in the crevices of my gun to make it look grimy and old. As you “buff” your weapon, think about what parts of the gun’s surface would get touched or rubbed against things the most. Those areas should be the brightest and the crevices should stay darker.

Let the Rub-n-Buff dry for a few hours. It is wax-based and rubs off on everything while wet, so be careful!


Step Five: Customize

This is where you get to let your creativity run wild! My steampunk weapon is a grapple gun, so I will tell you what I did to stylize my weapon in that manner, but don’t limit yourself! Do a Google image search and get inspired.

gun4I bought a toy Batman grappling hook to go with my gun. I painted it black, using the same method described above, and then used a slight brush of Rub-n-Buff to give it a little bit of a metallic reflection. I cut off the handle of the grappling hook and glued it into the barrel of my gun. I lucked out and it fit perfectly. I attached very thin black chain (I think it was supposed to be used in jewelry making) to a Yo-Yo and wrapped it around until it looked like a convincing spool for a grapple gun. And finally I used thick copper wire to make a rigging to attach the yo-yo to the bottom of the gun.

I wanted my gun to have cool chemical chambers on it, so I started testing the cleaning liquids around my house in small bottles I bought at Micheal’s. I ended up settling with Murphy’s Oil (the kind you use to clean wood) because of its cool amber color and thick consistency. I filled three little perfume bottles with it, drilled three appropriately-sized holes in the top of my gun, and glued them into place. I was careful to glue them in such a way as to permanently seal the bottles as well. Sadly, there was a mishap in my workshop and one of the bottles ended up breaking. I still haven’t found a matching bottle to replace it, so my grapple gun only has two canisters of super sticking liquid/super propellent on it.

Seriously, have fun with this last step. Wander around your local craft store or browse the internet and you will find some amazing things to work with! Lights, gears, piping, wood detailing, chemical chambers, moving parts, sound effects, and many other amazing things are possible, but you have to be brave enough to experiment a little.

Steampunk Batgirl Goldenlasso.net

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Kimi’s Cosplay Interview for Examiner.com

I was interviewed by Examiner.com about cosplay, gaming, and how the two are linked. Read up to get the inside scoop on my upcoming cosplays, my dream cosplay, cosplay advice, my favorite alcoholic beverages, and more!

Special thanks to Claire Broderick, the gaming writer for Examiner.com who came up with such great questions!

Kimi’s Cosplay Interview on Examiner.com

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Do-It-Yourself: Superhero Mask

A good superhero mask can make or break a costume, whether it’s for a kid’s party, Halloween, or a convention. I use a very simple method to create my superhero masks, and with a few craft supplies and household items, you can create your own mask that will look great and be easy on your wallet!

Materials:

- Craft Foam – Packs run about $7 and individual sheets around $1.
- Styrofoam Wig Head – Found online or at wig shops for about $2 – $4.
- Scissors/ Xacto Knife/ razor blade
– Heat Gun / Hot Hair dryer
– Mod Podge (spray or brush on type)
- Masking Tape
– Spray Paint (optional)

Process:

Step 1: Decide what color and shape of mask you want. Get craft foam of the correct color (or as close as possible) and start sketching your shape lightly in pencil. The side you draw on will eventually become the back side of your mask, so don’t worry about erasing mistakes perfectly. I use an Xacto knife or razor blade to cut my masks out because it’s easier to get smooth edges on the foam. To insure that my masks are symmetrical, I usually draw one side, cut out almost all of it, then fold it over and trace it to make the other half of the mask.

Step 2: Molding the foam mask to fit the contours of your face is very easy! Start by taping the mask in place on the foam wig head, making sure that the side with pencil marks becomes the back. Don’t use pins because they can leave holes in the foam or will melt it if they heat up during this process.  The tape might lose its grip if it gets too hot, but it will keep the mask in place for the beginning of the process.

Using a heat gun or a very hot hair dryer, start heating up the foam mask and gently pressing the mask into place. Be careful not to burn your finger or start melting the foam, especially if you are using a heat gun. If you smell something burning, STOP! I find that it works better to start in the middle of the mask near the nose since that area takes the most shaping, then move to the outer areas of the mask. Once you have the shape you like, let the mask cool completely before moving on to the next step.

Step 3: If your mask is already the correct color, move on to step four, but if the foam is not the right color now is the time to paint your mask. Leave it on the Styrofoam head, re-taping it so that the tape is on the back of the mask only. Then carefully spray paint or paint the mask by hand. It’s important to keep the mask on the head during this phase so that it keeps its new shape. I highly recommend testing your paint on a scrap of foam first because some paints will damage/melt foam. You will notice how messed up my Styrofoam head is in the pictures!

Step 4: After your mask is completely cooled and the paint is TOTALLY dry, you will seal your mask with a clear coat of Mod Podge. I usually use the spray on variety, which is available at craft stores, Wal-Mart and other places, but brushing it on can work as well. MAKE SURE THAT YOUR MASK IS STILL ON THE STYROFOAM HEAD WHEN YOU DO THIS and that the tape is attached to the back side. The Mod Podge will give your foam a shiny look and texture that resembles latex or leather. I recommend multiple coats of Mod Podge to give your mask more strength and to help it keep its shape. Let each coat dry completely before adding the next and leave the mask on the Styrofoam head for at least 24 hours after the last coat.

Step 5: There are many methods to wear your new mask. You can punch holes on the sides of the mask and tie ribbon or string to it, then tie it behind your head. For the “superhero” look, I usually use spirit gum to attach it directly to my face. Spirit gum is pretty cheap and available at most costume stores. Be sure to buy it in a pack with the spirit gum remover. Trust me on that. I learned the hard way. I also recommend testing it out on a small spot on your before the event, just in case it irritates your skin. You don’t want to show up to work on Monday with a raccoon mask rash!

This technique seems simple, but it can create amazing things! With practice, patience, and a little creativity, you will be able to create incredible masks and finish off even the most professional costumes!

 

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Do-It-Yourself: Steampunk Bustle Skirt

The bustle skirt was my favorite part of my Steampunk Batgirl costume. I wanted to create an item that was a steampunk staple, but still hint at the traditional cape that Batgirl is famous for wearing. The skirt is a simple six-panel skirt that is just missing the front three panels. Don’t know what that means? That’s ok, keep reading and I will do my best to explain. (I simplified some steps in this process, but it will end up looking just like my skirt.)


Waistband

The first thing you need to figure out is the length of your waistband. Measure your TRUE waist, which should be the narrowest part of your torso,  a little above your belly button. If you are going to wear the skirt under a corset subtract one inch from that measurement, otherwise add one inch to the measurement.

Example: Waist measurement: 28 inches
Under Corset: 27 inches
Not under corset: 29 inches

This will end up being the length of your waistband, including seam allowances. The under corset length is smaller to accommodate the smaller waist size and avoid uncomfortable bunching under the corset. Measure and cut a  rectangular strip if your fabric, using your adjusted waist measurement as the length and a width of 4 inches.

Take your waistband strip and iron some interfacing on the underside of it. You don’t need heavy duty interfacing, just some regular weight stuff to give the waistband some structural strength. MAKE SURE THAT YOU BUY IRON-ON INTERFACING. It will make your life a LOT easier, so ask the store personnel if you are unsure. It’s really easy to buy the wrong stuff, and we all hate the walk of shame back through the fabric store that you left 20 minutes ago.

Before you start sewing, you will want to iron creases into your waistband because it will make things much faster. Fold it over length-wise and iron it until it holds the crease down the center, then fold half inch folds along each edge of the waistband and iron until they hold creases as well. These mark your seam allowances and the creases will make the sewing easier.

Fold the waistband lengthwise, with the interfacing on the outside. This should be folded opposite of the ironed seam that you ironed earlier. You will then sew the ends closed on the half inch creases that you ironed earlier, but make sure that the lengthwise half inch seams are sewn in the folded position.

Now you are done prepping your waistband! You will turn it right-side out later, but for now we will move on to the panels!


Panels

I traced my panels from a floor-length skirt onto large pieces of butcher paper (ok, so they were old DnD maps, sue me). Those panels are about 13 inches wide across the top, 34 inches wide across the bottom, and 42 inches long, but I added about 5 more inches on both sides and an extra foot to the length of my panel outline. The fuller you want your bustle, the more fabric you need to add to each panel. I used three enlarged panels to create my steampunk skirt. Remember, always trace an cut patterns length-wise according to the weave of the fabric, just like the picture to the right.

PLEASE NOTE: Only add extra inches of fabric to the panels that you are going to use for the bustle. You won’t want to add as much/any extra fabric to the panel pattern for the front of the skirt or you will trip all over it.

Then sew the panels together by matching the edges and stitching them together to form a circle or semi-circle, like the picture to the left. My skirt only used three panels since it only went half way around my body. Full skirts will usually use five or more panels. Make sure your seams are all facing the same direction on your skirt as you sew. After you sew your panels together, you will want to finish your edges on the underside of the skirt and hem the outer edges. This video shows you ways to do that.


Put it all Together

Now you will pin the panels to the waistband before you sew them. You will choose one of the lengthwise half-inch seam allowances and pin the panels to, and start by pinning the front edges of the skirt to the appropriate place on the waistband. For my skirt, I wanted the skirt to open right in front of my hip bones so that my bloomers and garters would show. The easiest way to do this is to safety pin the waistband on yourself, then pin the front edges of the skirt to where you want them on the waistband.

Once the front pins are in place, you will need to make pleats to gather the rest of the skirt fabric to the waistband. You will basically fold the fabric over itself, then pin it into place. This it the most tedious part of making the skirt, but remember that the pleats do not have to be perfect.

Once you are done pinning the skirt, carefully sew the pleats in place on the side that you pinned. Iron the pleats flat after you sew them, then close the waistband (be careful that the other seam allowance is folded up inside), and then sew it shut across the bottom.


Bustling the Bustle

Now your basic skirt is finished, it’s time to add the bustle. The easiest way is to put your skirt on the dress form and start pinning. There isn’t really a magic formula, just start pulling spots and pinning them to higher places to give it the tiered appearance. Once you have everything looking good, hand stitch each spot where you pinned. Don’t start sewing until your whole bustle is pinned, because you will probably change your mind… a few times.

   


Bat Wings

The “bat” part of the skirt was actually designed to be a completely separate piece. It was made just like a cape, and is hand stitched into the waistband so that it can be detached and reattached very easily. I did that to give the skirt more versatility as a costume piece. I can now wear it with my steampunk batgirl, or remove it to be just steampunk!

I measured and drew the desired shape on butcher paper (another old DnD map) and traced one on the black and one on the yellow fabrics. I then carefully cut them out and pinned them together, starting with the point of each bat wing shape to be sure they lined up correctly. I then stitched them together and turned it inside out to hide the edges, just like a simple cape design. Originally, I had planned to add interfacing to give the wings some stiffness and shape, but I really liked how the material flowed without it. Then I simply closed up the top of the “wings” and hand stitched it into the waistband of the skirt, underneath the already finished bustle.

  

Have questions? Need clarification? Post a reply or email me at Kimi@goldenlasso.net

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Do-It-Yourself: Merida Wig (from Brave)

Merida is the high-spirited new princess from Disney/Pixar’s new movie, Brave. One of her defining features is her amazing curly red hair. It took Pixar artists over three years to perfect the program that created Merida’s trademark locks. It’s the single most identifiable part of any Merida costume, and a huge challenge to create.

The biggest challenges for the wig were the specific shape and size, color and highlights, varied textures, and movement. After doing lots of internet shopping I decided that a single, store-bought wig would never achieve the look I wanted. As always, cost was a factor and I was not willing to buy a custom wig for my Merida cosplay, so I started researching and figuring out how to make one of my own.

I decided that combining multiple wigs would be the best course of action. I specifically bought three different wigs so that the hair wouldn’t match perfectly. Normal hair has different texture and coloration throughout, and I hoped to mimic this look. In the end this was very successful and the final product ended up looking much more lifelike (other than it’s crazy size) due to the variety in it. One was a very high quality wig (they will usually cost between $40 and $60 depending on where you shop) and the other two were cheaper costume wigs (usually around $20). Look for sales, used wigs, or outlet stores to save more money. You want the colors to match very closely, but if there is a shade or two difference between them it will still appear natural.

Step 1: Take the cheaper wigs apart. This is a mind-numbingly repetitive and slow process. Basically you use a seam ripper to carefully detach the strands of hair from the headpiece. As you can see in the picture to the right, the hair in most wigs is attached in rows. Clip most of the wig up on top of the foam head and start removing these rows from the back neckline. Be careful to keep these rows as intact as possible so it is easier to restitch them back onto the main wig. You just want to remove the stitches that attach the rows to the elastic/skull cap, not the stitches that keep the row of hair together.

PRO TIP: Start at the bottom back and stack the rows of hair neatly as you go. Then you will be able to sew them onto the same area on the new wig and the will be about the right size row and length.

mainwigStep 2: Sew the hair, by hand, onto the higher quality wig. It’s important to use a higher quality wig for the base so it is comfortable and fits well. It will stay on your head more easily and look more realistic. The cheaper hair will look better if it is mixed in with high quality hair. Sewing hair to a wig is very similar to removing it. Use a hair clip to pile most of the hair on top of the foam head, and start reattaching hair at the back neckline. As you can see in the picture to the right, the higher quality wigs have more elastic in them so they can adjust more precisely. You want the hair to be straight between each strip of elastic, but don’t pull it tight. If it’s too tight, the wig will not stretch properly to fit on your head. Just stitch it where it lays naturally on the foam head. You will stitch the hair to the elastic strands in the wig, NOT TO THE OTHER HAIR!

When you are done stitching, try it on to make sure that it still fits. If it doesn’t, you will have to remove the hair you added and try again. Seriously, don’t sew it on too tight.

Step 3: Styling the huge wig. This is the most stressful part because you can really mess up wigs if you aren’t careful. NEVER STRAIGHT BRUSH A CURLY WIG. You can really mess it up. Carefully shake it or bounce it up and down to give it life or use your fingers to remove tangles carefully. Wig spray can be very helpful to keep tangles down since it reproduces the natural oils that we make for our hair. It also makes the hair look more shiny and real.

To get the volume and shape of Merida’s hair, I had to do a lot of teasing around the sides of the head. Teasing hair is very counter-intuitive, because you are basically creating strategic tangles in the hair to make it stand farther from the scalp. Again, clip the hair at the very crown of the wig up and out of the way, you only want to tease hair that will be hidden by it later. Take a small section of the remaining and pull it straight up from the wig, then brush BACKWARDS from the about half way up the strand towards the roots. Use a round bristle brush and lots of hairspray to make it easier. Short, quick strokes are best. This obnoxious YouTube video can show you much better than I can describe it, but just watch the first 30-40 seconds of it to get the idea. With a curly wig, the most important thing is to make sure you put the teased areas UNDER non-teased hair, so plan well! You don’t want it to show and you can’t just brush the hair smooth like you can with real hair. You might want to practice on a cheap wig or your own hair before you try on your main wig.

Curling wigs is a pain. If possible, always buy wigs already curled the proper amount. You cannot use curling irons or any heated hair styling tools on most wigs. The wigs I purchased were pretty curly, but there were a few strands that were sticking out oddly when I finished teasing. To amend this, I used  old-fashioned plastic curlers (the ones that have foam and then clip shut) to wrap these strands and then CAREFULLY dipped them in boiling water for about thirty seconds. Be very careful to not dip non-curler hair in the water because it will straighten it, and don’t burn yourself! After dipping them, carefully run just the curler hair under cold water. Having a second person to hold the wig head and extra hair is very helpful if you try this method of curling. Once the curlers have been dipped in cold water, carefully unwind them from the curlers and let them dry. Once they are dry, hairspray the heck out of them! I chose to use a few different sizes of curlers to give the same variety of curl size that Merida’s hair has, and you may want to use the same trick if you are trying to recreate natural curls.

Step 4: Wear it! I was very happy with the final product, but I may add even more hair to it before next time! I saw a LOT of Merida cosplayers at San Diego Comic-Con and the wigs were what really set the good ones apart. In cosplay, size does matter.

 

 

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10 Convention Necessities for Cosplayers

Cosplaying completely changes the convention experience. The crowds, schedules, lines, and costs are only more stressful once costumes are added to the mix. Here is a list of “must-haves” that will make your cosplay experience easier.

1) Emergency Repair Kit

This is a large kit that you keep in your car or hotel room for the length of the convention. It should include a sewing kit, duct tape, fashion tape, a hot glue gun, industrial glue, masking tape, permanent markers or touch-up paint in the colors of your costume and props, stain remover, and fabreeze. Crazy things happen at conventions and it’s best to be prepared for anything.

2) Business Cards

These make a cosplayer’s life a lot easier. Nobody wants to take time to spell out their Twitter handle or email address in the middle of the busy convention floor. You don’t have to spend money on these. Even if you just write your contact info on a bunch of post-its ahead of time, photographers and other cosplayers will really appreciate it.

PRO TIP: Be careful not to put your personal phone number or full name on these cards, unless you are willing to deal with stalkers showing up at your house. Set up a cosplay email account if your email address includes your last name… or if you have a crazy complicated email address.

3) Pockets

Pockets are one of the most difficult things to build into a costume, especially women’s costumes. A place to store your cell phone, your ID, and a credit card are worth more than gold when it comes to working the convention floor. Whether it’s a hidden pocket glued into the top of your go-go boots, a small matching bag that you make out of extra fabric, or a significant other who is willing to follow you around with a backpack, it is vital that you have a way to transport your stuff. Make sure you at least have your ID somewhere on you in case something happens.

4) Floor Kit

This is the mini version of your emergency repair kit and should go with you around the convention. I highly suggest fashion/2-sided tape (the pre-cut strips are best), small tube of super glue, eyelash glue, and lipstick are the musts. If you have room in your bag or pockets, I also suggest masking tape.

5) 3 Different Poses

You will get asked to pose for pictures so put some thought into it before you arrive at the convention. Photographers will usually shoot a few pictures in a row, but they will lose interest faster if you stand frozen in the same pose for all of them. Try to hold a pose for a few seconds, then switch it up. Practice poses at home in front of a mirror, or have a friend shoot pictures of you. Most people at conventions are not professional photographers and they will do you no favors by setting up the shot or making you look good. Practice makes perfect!

6) A Posse

Conventions are big places where all manner of people are shoved into a high stress environment together. If you can, attend a convention with friends or other cosplayers. They will hold your props while you stand in the bathroom line, help keep an eye out for up-skirt camera pervs, and take pictures of you when you see your favorite celeb.

7) Snacks & Water

Dehydration and empty stomachs can ruin your day very quickly. It’s easy to forget to take care of yourself when you are caught up in enjoying yourself. Suddenly you realize that you haven’t eaten in six hours and the line for the nearest food is 45 minutes long. Have a granola bar hidden somewhere on your person. Water is harder to transport (and bathroom breaks are a pain in some costumes) so be sure you hydrate extra in the days leading up to the convention.

8) Gum or Mints

Conventions are crowded. Bad breath sucks. Enough said.

9) Costume Check List

These will help you get your entire costume to and home from the convention. Nothing sucks more than getting dressed and realizing that you left that amazing belt buckle that you made is still on your sewing table. It’s even worse when you realize that you left a vital part of your cosplay at the hotel when you were in a hurry to get to the airport. A check list makes sure every little bit stays with you. It’s worth the extra effort.

10) A Plan

Conventions are becoming very popular. Parking, tickets, hotel rooms, and panel lines can be a real nightmare. Trust me, there is NOTHING worse than showing up for a convention in costume and figuring out that the only open parking is six blocks away. Do your research ahead of time. Know where the parking is and how much it costs, buy your tickets days or weeks before, and know the costume and prop rules for the event. It will save you a lot of time, stress, and disappointment in the end.

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